Posts tagged Inverness-shire
Walking the Quaraing Loop & Trig Pillar, Skye

Start & Finish: The Quiraing Car Park, Unnamed Road, Portree, Sartle, Staffin, Portree, IV51 9LB
Distance: 6.5 km (4 miles)
Elevation change: +/- 288m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): None
Other routes touched (cycle): None
Pubs / Cafes on route: None
Map: Skye – Trotternish and the Storr Map | Uig | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map 408
Links: Isle of Skye, Trotternish NSA, The Quaraing


Following our previous day’s out-and-back walk to the Old Man of Storr, we returned to the north of Skye for the Quaraing Loop. Similar to the Old Man, the Quaraing is a popular walking spot with stunning rock features. There’s a large car park nearby that can get very busy in the summer and at weekends.

Also like the Old Man, most visitors do an out-and-back to the see the Prison and the Needle. It’s well worth doing the full 6.5km loop though as there’s a lot more to see further on. The start of the trail is already at 250m elevation so the first 2km, heading anti-clockwise, is a gentle ascent. The main trail takes you through the middle of the Prison and the Needle before turning a corner. After the corner there’s a flat(ish) kilometre through a valley heading north-west towards Fir Bhreugach. Although it was tempting to check out views from the mountains to the north, we kept to the Quaraing Loop.

The return half starts with a steep ascent up the side of Meall na Suiramach. We had a very clear day and the views from our frequent rest-and-take-a-breath stops were outstanding. For here you can see the whole northern side of Skye and across the sea to other islands. The highest point of the Loop doesn’t quite get you to the Trig Pillar at the summit of Meall na Suiramach. I needed to bag it I so took a small diversion from the main trail to the Trig, returning a bit further along the trail to rejoin Timea who opted for a 10 minute rest over bagging a Trig Pillar.

Most of the final stage of the walk is a steady descent down toward the car park with a steeper section at the end. When were there in Summer 2024, the path on the final section was closed for repair so we had to find a steep alternative with a lot of hanging onto foliage to keep slipping. The new stone path looked impressive though.

The Old Man of Storr might be the most impressive rock formation but, for me, this was the most enjoyable walk and the best part of our short stay on Skye.



Walking to the Old Man of Storr, Skye

The Old Man of Storr and Needle Rock


Start & Finish: Old Man of Storr Car Park, Skye, IV51 9HX
Distance: 5.1 km (3.2 miles)
Elevation change: +/- 300m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Skye Trail
Other routes touched (cycle): None
Pubs / Cafes on route: Cafe at the car park
Map: Skye – Trotternish and the Storr Map | Uig | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map 408
Links: Isle of Skye, Trotternish NSA, The Storr


We had just 2 days on to the Isle of Skye on a short Scottish Roadtrip. Given how far away Skye is from home we decided to bag the easy “must-see”s on this trip and save larger adventures for later. The Old Man of Storr is definitely a must-see so we drove straight there from our previous night’s accommodation at Speen Bridge. Storr’s must-see status made parking predictable tricky, even for a large parking area. Once parked we picked up the tourist trail towards the main view point just over 2.2 km from the car park.

It’s easy to see why this is so popular. The rock formations are spectacular, especially on a clear day like we had. our original plan was to continue past the view point and take an anti-clockwise circular route that takes in the summit of The Storr mountain. As The Storr is also the high point of the Trotternish National Scenic Area so it would have been another great box-tick. The wind had picked up and it was getting late in the day so we decided to skip the circuit and return back to the car instead.

Rather than go straight back on the same route we took a small diversion to the right of Needle Rock that takes you right up close to The Old Man. I recommend checking this out as it’s quieter than the main route and I managed to get some of the best photos of the day from the base of The Old Man. On the final descent we took another diversion on the longer, less steep route to the car park.



Walking The Caledonian Canal from Corpach to Neptune's Steps

The Corpach Shipwreck


Start & Finish: Banavie Locks Car Park, Banavie, Fort William, PH33 7PL
Distance: 5.4 km (3.4 miles)
Elevation change: +/- 30m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Great Glen Way
Other routes touched (cycle): NCN 78
Pubs / Cafes on route: Cafe at The Moorings Hotel at the start and finish. An Cafaidh Mara Corpach (3.5 km in)
Map: Ben Nevis & Fort William Map | The Mamores & the Grey Corries, Kinlochleven & Spean Bridge | Ordnance Survey | OS Explorer Map 392
Links: Fort William, Banavie, Banavie Station, Caledonian Canal, Neptune’s Staircase, Great Glen Way, Corpach, Corpach Shipwreck


This is a short walk at the southern end of the Caledonian Canal. The canal runs for approximately 60 miles, connecting the west coast of Scotland at Loch Linnhe to the north-eastern coast at Inverness. We were staying in Fort William for a couple of days and wanted to see Neptunes’s Staircase so we turned it into an interesting short circular walk. Neptune’s Staircase is the longest staircase lock in Britain, lifting boats 20 metres through eight locks.

Starting from the Banavie Locks Car Park take a left onto the canal towpath to ascend Neptunes Staircase in a north-easterly direction. Cross over the top lock and take a right to follow the towpath in a south-westerly direction, following the Great Glen Way. Carefully cross over the A830 and continue along the towpath / Great Glen Way to the final lock at Corpach.

Near the end of the canal you’ll see the Corpach Shipwreck across a football field to your left. The ship has been beached there since 2011 and has become a local landmark. If the weather and tides are fine it’s worth a quick diversion from the towpath to check it out.

The canal and towpath finish at Loch Linnhe in the small town of Corpach. Cross over the final lock to the northern side. We stopped at the small cafe in the marina for food and an escape from the heavy rain that suddenly came through.

From Corpach Marina keep on the northern side of the canal heading in a north-easterly direction to return to Banavie Locks.



Cycling from Land's End To John O'Groats
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The Land’s End To John O’Groats (LEJOG) cycle trip had been on my back burner for a very long time. It started 21 years ago when I was planning my Queen’s Scout Award. The Award was similar to the Duke Of Edinburgh Award and required a big expedition. I chose to do a cycling trip and needed to find a route greater than the 200 mile minimum requirement. Andrew, my expedition partner, and I briefly considered LEJOG but the distance was way more than required and, at the time, seemed like a bit too much effort. Maidenhead, our hometown, to Lands End at 350 miles was more like it.

1993: Maidenhead to Land's End

That summer was amazing. The years have probably erased all memories of the tough spots and any bad weather, so all I remember now is endless sunny days and pleasant glides through the South-West countryside. We cycled 60 miles a day, stayed in Youth Hostels and survived on Diet Coke and White Chocolate Magnum ice-creams. The 6 day trip to Land’s End was my first big adventure and it definitely wasn't going to be the last. Ever since then the full Land’s End To John O’Groats trip was something I had to do ... just not right now.

Right after that trip I started working for Mars and the next few years was all about work and socialising. 4 years living abroad was a whole different adventure in itself and the LEJOG idea sunk into the very back of my mind. It was only in my mid-30s that I started to get back into the outdoors in a big way. After the Kilimanjaro trek in 2013 I started planning my next big trip and the LEJOG idea started to bubble up again. Two more things then happened to bring it right to the front. The first was turning 40 and thoughts around finishing off things that I wanted to do. The second was planning the Growlerthon, my fundraising year in memory of my dad who was diagnosed with lung cancer shortly after Kili. Back burner no more .... I had to do LEJOG.

Putting the team together was relatively easy. Slobby did the trip 2 years before and was up for doing it again. Brian, my Kili buddy, was also an easy “yes”. Brian recruited the rest of the team: Martyn and Ray, both from our office and both with different personal charity and fitness goals, and Reggie, Brian's brother. By early January we had the team together and the next few months was all about training and route planning.

We had all heard of different routes, from the 41 hours record to a very sedate month-long LEJOG pub crawl. 2 weeks seemed the most obvious duration as it was about as much time as we could get off work and the 75 mile average day was very manageable. This plan meant we could stay off the busy A roads as much as possible and get as much scenery in as possible. By the time we all met up in Penzance the evening before the start, we had reached a peak of excitement. We had done all we could to prepare, train and fundraise. Now all we had to do was cycle.

We took Day 1 easy, just 35 miles to Falmouth. A little hilly, but nothing to complain about and a good dose of coastal route scenery. It was the next 2 days, Falmouth to Exford, that were the real test. Most people assume that Scotland is the toughest section for hills, but its actually Devon and Cornwall. This is part of the reason to start at Lands-End so that you can knock off the coastal hills while your legs are fresh. This would have been fine, except that I was still getting used to my new road-bike and I still wasn’t used to the gears. There were several points on the first few days when I thought I’d broken my bike by changing to the wrong gear at the wrong time up a hill.

By Day 4 we’d got into a flow, having got used to being together as a team and perfecting the routine of every day on the road. Each day we would get up at around 7:30, have breakfast, kit-up and tackle the first 15 to 20 miles. Then would come morning break, usually coffee and carrot cake, followed by another 20 miles before lunch. The afternoons were similar: 20 miles, then coffee and cake and the final push through to wherever we were staying that evening. We even got the evenings down to a fine art with some of us sorting out payment for the hostel, some sorting out clothes washing whilst the others showered.

Whilst a lot of the process of doing the trip became routine, the adventure was in the route itself. England, Wales and Scotland unfolded before us, showing us some of the best parts of the countryside. Towards the end of the trip we about our favourite parts but there were too many to bring it down to a short-list. Often we would post on Facebook about that day having been the best of the trip, only for the next day to be just a enjoyable or even better. My video of the highlights is probably the best way to explain how amazing the trip was.

One special moment for me was the evening in Wick, our final overnight stop after our longest day at 105 miles. We were less than 2 cycling hours from John O’Groats so there was already a feeling of celebration. We’d already been spared punctures or major injuries so getting to the end was inevitable, even if we had to walk. Wick really has a sense of being at the end of the country. It was fairly bleak, even in summer, and we wondered what people did there. Over a few pints a a curry we talked about the hilly South-West from 2 weeks ago, the exhilarating downhill rides into Exford, the Strawberry Line to Bristol, crossing the Severn Bridge, The Wye Valley, the ferry across the Mersey, the Lake District, Gretna, Arran, the Great Glenn and the Scottish coast. All very different experiences and even more special to have been able to join them up in one self-powered adventure.

After all of that, the final was a bit of an anti-climax. From Wick, we only had 17 miles to go, normally the distance till our first carrot cake stop. This 17 miles contained the most rain we'd had apart from the Lake District. John O’Groats quickly came and we were greeted by Martyn's family and friends who had followed us since Arran. The next part was ultra efficient, disassembling and boxing up the bikes, driving to Inverness airport and boarding the plane to Gatwick. After 2 weeks of being very present and fully focused on the trip, suddenly it was all over. I’d had a nice sense of completion for the adventure that I'd had in my mind for 21 years, but it didn't feel like an end, more the inspiration for something new. From John O’Groats, there's 2 ways to go, North by boat to Orkney or carry on West to Dunnet Head, the mainland’s most northerly point, then the wild Scottish coast. I'm sure I'll be back for both, but a lot sooner than 21 years.


Day 1: Land’s End to Falmouth

Date: July 6th 2015
Start:
Land’s End Visitors Centre, Sennen, Penzance TR19 7AA
Finish:
Falmouth Lodge Backpackers Hostel, 9 Gyllyngvase Terrace, Falmouth, TR11 4DL
Distance: 60.4 km (37.5 miles)
Elevation change: +757m / - 798 m / Net -41m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (Cycle): NCN 3
Other Routes Touched (Walk): South West Coast Path


Day 2: Falmouth to Tintagel

Date: July 7th 2015
Start:
Falmouth Lodge Backpackers Hostel, 9 Gyllyngvase Terrace, Falmouth, TR11 4DL
Finish:
YHA Tintagel, Dunderhole Point, Tintagel PL34 0DW
Distance: 88.8 km (55.2 miles)
Elevation Change: +1,333m / - 1,289 m / Net +44m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (Cycle): NCN 3, 32
Other Routes Touched (Walk): South West Coast Path


Day 3: Tintagel to Exford

Date: July 8th 2015
Start:
YHA Tintagel, Dunderhole Point, Tintagel PL34 0DW
Finish:
Exford Hostel, Exemead Stables, Exford, Minehead TA24 7PU
Distance: 118.6 km (73.7 miles)
Elevation change: : +1,641m / - 1,457 m / Net -184m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (Cycle): NCN 27, 277, 3, 33
Other Routes Touched (Walk): South West Coast Path, Tarka Trail, Macmillan Way West, Two Moors Way, Exe Valley Way


Day 4: Exford to Bristol

Date: July 9th 2015
Start:
Exford Hostel, Exemead Stables, Exford, Minehead, TA24 7PU
Finish:
YHA Bristol, 14 Narrow Quay, Avon, Bristol BS1 4QA
Distance: 122 km (76 miles)
Elevation change: : +875m / - 1,120 m / Net -245m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (Cycle): NCN 26 (The Strawberry Line), 3, 33, 334, 41, 410
Other Routes Touched (Walk): Exe Valley Way, Coleridge Way, Macmillan Way West, River Parrett Trail, The Mendip Trail, West Mendip Way, Round Yatton Walk, River Avon Trail,

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Day 5: Bristol to Hereford

Date: July 10th 2015
Start:
YHA Bristol, 14 Narrow Quay, Avon, Bristol BS1 4QA
Finish:
East Friars B&B, 33 Greyfriars Avenue, Hereford, HR4 0BE
Distance: 84 km (52.2 miles)
Elevation change: +1,047m / - 1,007 m / Net +40m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (Cycle): NCN 4, 41, 410, 42, 423, 46,
Other Routes Touched (Walk): Bristol Triangular City Walk, Severn Way, Wales Coast Path, Wye Valley Walk, Offa’s Dyke Path, Gloucestershire Way, Herefordshire Trail,


Day 6: Hereford to Chester

Date: July 11th 2015
Start:
East Friars B&B, 33 Greyfriars Avenue, Hereford, HR4 0BE
Finish:
Grotty hotel in Chester City Centre, CH1 3DU
Distance: 149.4 km (92.8 miles)
Elevation change: +1,035m / - 1,066 m / Net -31m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (Cycle): NCN 44, 45, 455, 81,
Other Routes Touched (Walk): Herefordshire Trail, Shropshire Way, Jack Mytton Way, Severn Way, Llangolen Canal Towpath, Maelor Way, Marches Way, Baker Way, Two Saints Way, Shropshire Union Canal Towpath,


Day 7: Chester to Morecambe

Date: July 12th 2015
Start:
Grotty hotel in Chester City Centre, CH1 3DU
Finish:
The Morecambe Bay Hotel, 317-318 Marine Rd Central, Morecambe LA4 5AA
Distance: 122.9 km (76.4 miles)
Elevation change: +627m / - 642 m / Net -15m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (Cycle): NCN 56, 568, 6, 62, 622, 69, 810,
Other Routes Touched (Walk): Shropshire Union Canal Towpath, Longster Trail, North Cheshire Way, Ribble Way, Lancaster Canal Towpath,


Day 8: Morecambe to Carlisle

Date: July 13th 2015
Start:
The Morecambe Bay Hotel, 317-318 Marine Rd Central, Morecambe LA4 5AA
Finish:
YHA Carlisle (now permanently closed), Bridge Ln, Carlisle CA2 5SR
Distance: 123.2 km (76.5 miles)
Elevation change: +1,172m / - 1,161 m / Net +11m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (Cycle): NCN 10, 6, 69, 7, 70, 71, 700
Other Routes Touched (Walk): Lancashire Coastal Way, Cumbria Coastal Way, Coast To Coast Walk, Cumbria Way,


Day 9: Carlisle to New Cumnock

Date: July 14th 2015
Start:
YHA Carlisle (now permanently closed), Bridge Ln, Carlisle CA2 5SR
Finish:
Old School B&B, Dalleagles, New Cumnock, East Ayrshire, KA18 4QW
Distance: 126.5 km (78.6 miles)
Elevation change: +921m / - 707 m / Net -214m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (Cycle): NCN 10, 7, 72
Other Routes Touched (Walk): Hadrian’s Wall Path, Annandale Way, Southern Upland Way,


Day 10: New Cumnock to Lochgilphead

Date: July 15th 2015
Start:
Old School B&B, Dalleagles, New Cumnock, East Ayrshire, KA18 4QW
Finish:
Empire Lodge B&B, Union St Lochgilphead, Lochgilphead, PA31 8JS,
Distance: 131.8 km (81.9 miles)
Elevation change: +1,213m / -1,437 m / Net -224m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (Cycle): NCN 7, 73, 78
Other Routes Touched (Walk): River Ayr Way, New Town Trail, Arran Coastal Way, Kyntire Way

elevation_profile Day 10C.jpg


Day 11: Lochgilphead to Fort William

Date: July 16th 2015
Start:
Empire Lodge B&B, Union St Lochgilphead, Lochgilphead, PA31 8JS,
Finish:
Glen Nevis Youth Hostel, Glen Nevis, Fort William PH33 6SY
Elevation change: 135.6 km (84.3 miles)
Ascent: +1,554m / -1,535 m / Net -19m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (Cycle): NCN 78
Other Routes Touched (Walk): Great Glen Way, West Highland Way


Day 12: Fort William to Inverness

Date: July 17th 2015
Start:
Glen Nevis Youth Hostel, Glen Nevis, Fort William PH33 6SY
Finish:
Inverness Youth Hostel, Victoria Dr, Inverness IV2 3QB
Elevation change: 107.9 km (67 miles)
Ascent: +1,197m / -1,206 m / Net -9m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (Cycle): NCN 1, 7, 78
Other Routes Touched (Walk): West Highland Way, East Highland Way, Great Glen Way


Day 13: Inverness to Wick

Date: July 18th 2015
Start:
Inverness Youth Hostel, Victoria Dr, Inverness IV2 3QB
Finish:
Harbour House B&B, 12 Harbour Terrace, Wick KW1 5HB
Distance: 167.1 km (103.8 miles)
Elevation change: +1,471m / - 1,486 m / Net -15m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (Cycle): NCN 1
Other Routes Touched (Walk): none


Day 14: Wick to John O’ Groats

Date: July 19th 2015
Start:
Harbour House B&B, 12 Harbour Terrace, Wick KW1 5HB
Finish:
John O’ Groats Visitors Centre, John O' Groats, Wick KW1 4YR
Distance: 27.6 km (17.1 miles)
Elevation change: +203m / - 213 m / Net -10m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (Cycle): NCN 1
Other Routes Touched (Walk): none



Ben Nevis: Inverness-shire County Top
View from the Pony Track

View from the Pony Track


Also known as: Beinn Nibheis
Significance: Highest peak in Inverness-shire (Historic County Top), Highland (Council Top), Mainland Great Britain/Scotland/UK Country Top, Ben Nevis and Glen Coe NSA High Point
Member of: Munro, Marilyn
Parent Peak: N/A.
Nearest Higher Neighbour: Melderskin, Norway
Elevation: 1,344m
Date climbed: 21st May 2005 and July 28th 2012
Coordinates: 56.7969° N, 5.0036° W

Route Start / End: Ben Nevis Inn, Achintee Rd, Achintee, Fort William, PH33 6TE
Route Distance: 15.5 km (9.6 miles)
Route Elevation Change: +/- 1,306m
Subsidiary tops on route: none
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched: none
OS Trig Pillar: TP1289 - Ben Nevis
Map: OS Explorer 392: Ben Nevis and Fort William
Guidebook: The UK's County Tops (Jonny Muir), Cicerone Guide: Ben Nevis and Glen Coe
Links: Wikipedia (Inverness-shire), Wikipedia (Ben Nevis), Peakbagger, Hillbagging


I’ve completed two ascents of the UK’s tallest mountain. Both were on unofficial self-organised Three Peaks Challenges. We weren’t bothered by doing it in the normal 24 hour window, so did it in a more leisurely 36 hours. This allows for an overnight stay and removes the need for a support driver.

On my first attempt we completed the challenge in a whisker under the 36 hours. We stayed in Fort William on the night before, did Ben Nevis in the morning, lunch in the Ben Nevis Inn, and drove to a hotel near Scafell Pike. On the second day we did an early ascent of Scafell Pike, then drove to Snowdonia for the Snowdon ascent.

My second Three Peaks attempt, with a different group, didn’t go quite so well. We ended up doing four peaks, but not the ones that we intended. I’ll save that story for the Scafell Pike post.

Unless you’re particularly adventurous and very experienced there’s one route up and down a Ben Nevis: The Pony Track. It’s a safe route with little navigation required. On both of my ascents the visibility at the top was extremely poor and the return from the summit to the track wasn’t obvious. Yes, it’s a relatively easy climb but don’t beget caught out and do all the usual mountain prep and precautions.