Posts tagged Herefordshire

Walking The Chiltern Way Part 2 - Cow Roast to Chalk Hill

Start: Cowroast Lock, 46 Wharf Ln, Tring HP23 5RE
Finish: White Lion Pub, Watling Street, Houghton Regis, Dunstable, LU6 1RS
Distance: 21.9 km (13.6 Miles)
Elevation change: +314m / -315m. Net -1m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (walk): Grand Union Canal Towpath, Rangers’ Ramble, Foresters’ Walk, Ashridge Boundary Trail, Hertfordshire Way, Icknield Way Path
Other Routes Touched (cycle): Chilterns Cycleway, Berkhamsted Route 6
Pubs / Cafes on route: Bridgewater Arms, Little Gadesden / National Trust Cafe at Dunstable Downs
Maps: OS Explorer Map (181) Chiltern Hills North and OS Explorer Map (193) Luton and Stevenage
Links: Chiltern Way (Chiltern Society), Cow Roast, National Trust Ashridge Estate, Ashridge, Little Gaddesden, Whipsnade Zoo, Whipsnade, Dunstable Downs National Trust

For our latest Winter Solstice walk we picked up the Chiltern Way from where we left off a year ago. Cow Roast Lock at 08:00 was a bit brighter and significantly less rainy than how we left it in 2019.

As we got into the first hour of the walk Brian and I reflected on some of the changes in a weird year of Covid-19. For the first time since I started my Solstice Walks I wasn’t doing it to unwind from my usual year-end work stress. I hadn’t been to an office since mid-February, had no work-related travel and very little commuting. This gave me a chance to build in more positive daily habits and have more control over my working environment. Year-end at work was still very busy, but now I felt energised rather than exhausted.

This first half of this section of the Chiltern Way was pleasant but with fewer points of interest. Fields and woodland went by in a blur as we caught up on our recent events. The route became more interesting as we ascended out of the Gade Valley after Dagnall and up toward Whipsnade. This part of the Chiltern Way converges with the Icknield Way path that I covered a few years ago in similar damp weather and muddy terrain.

We were walking between Lockdowns 2 and 3 and food stops were few and far between. Normally the Bridgewater Arms at Little Gadesden would have been open when we arrived, but we were too early for their later opening times. The National Trust Cafe at Dunstable Downs was our main hope but the Visitor Centre and Cafe were closed. We has to make do with a pasty and a coffee from the small takeaway hatch at the back. It was drizzling and freezing so we didn’t hang around for long and continued north.

Our finish point was the White Lion Pub on the A5 north of Dunstable. This felt like the obvious target as it was the starting point of our 2nd Icknield Way trip 2 years ago. As that also covered the next section of the Chiltern Way, we’ll start again from Streatley for our next Solstice walk.

WhatsApp Image 2020-12-19 at 09.34.22 (1).jpeg

Previous section: Walking The Chiltern Way Part 1 - Stokenchurch to Cow Roast
Next section: see Icknield Way Part 2 - Chalk Hill to Pirton (first half to Streatley follows the Chiltern Way)

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Richard gower18 December 2020Trek, Chilterns, Buckinghamshire, Herefordshire, Bedfordshire, EnglandComment

Chiltern Walks: The Chess Valley Walk

Part of the Chiltern Rivers Series
River start: Pednor, near Chesham, Buckinghamshire
River end: Confluence with River Colne at Rickmansworth
River length: 17.9 km (11.1 miles)
Walking route start / end: Rickmansworth Underground Station / Chesham Underground Station
Walking route length: 21.7 km (13.5 miles)
Walking route elevation change: +309m / -256m. Net -53
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched (walk): Chiltern Way
Other routes touched (cycle): Chilterns Cycleway, Hampden Route, Harding Route
Map: OS Explorer Map (181) Chiltern Hills North & OS Explorer Map (172) Chiltern Hills East
Links: River Chess, Rickmansworth, Rickmansworth Station, Sarratt Bottom, Latimer, Chesham, Chesham Station

Having completed the Circle Line Ru n I was now excited about the London Underground. Today's adventure was going to be running the Bakerloo Line. However, once I'd checked out the route on Streetview I got a little uninspired by most of the Northern section. I needed some countryside and I definitely wouldn't get that on the Bakerloo.

Google came to the rescue with a link to the Chess Valley Walk. It's a 10-mile sign posted walk following the River Chess between Rickmansworth and Chesham. Conveniently, it starts and ends at the Underground stations of each town. Both are on the Western end of the Metropolitan line, allowing for an easy point to point walk. Both are connected by a 16 minute Tube journey.

I chose the East to West direction starting at Rickmansworth where the Chess meets the Colne. I decided to do a longer version of the route by going as close to the source and the end as possible. The closest I could get was a small bridge near where the Underground crosses the river.

The actual route of the walk starts half a mile along after a small detour back towards the station. From here it meanders around the outskirts of the town, heading into the Chiltern countryside.

This was a cold, misty December day and I had the route mostly to myself. The path stays close to the river with some parts diverting off where it flows through private land.

Despite being well signposted, a few places can catch you out. Two spurs of the path divert to the Metropolitan Line stations on the route, Chorleywood and Chalfont and Latimer. This allows for the walk to be split into smaller sections, each linked by the Underground. I discovered that the signs for the spur were more obvious than those for the main path. Blindly following one, I ended up diverting towards Chorleywood for about a half a mile. It would have been easy to have made the same mistake further on in Latimer had I not been prepared for it.

The path between Latimer and Chesham was familiar. I ran it in the opposite direction for the Country to Capital Ultra 2 years ago. Once in Chesham I left the signed path and headed to find the source. The river starts at Bury Pond, about half a mile North West of town. The pond is on private property but you can get a good view of it from Pednor Road that runs next to it.

My route was 13.5 miles, with the extra 2 miles on the official route made up of the extra bits at the start and end plus the Chorleywood diversion.

I really enjoyed the combination of a proper countryside walk connected by the Underground. It also gave me the inspiration for a few more Chiltern River trips. Next up: the Pinn, the Colne and the Wye.

Above: Red = course of the River Chess, red = walking route. You’d think it would be the other way around but I can’t get the colours to swap on the app I’m using #usererror.

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Richard gower22 December 2016Trek, Chilterns, Underground, Herefordshire, Buckinghamshire, EnglandComment

Cycling from Land's End To John O'Groats

The Land’s End To John O’Groats (LEJOG) cycle trip had been on my back burner for a very long time. It started 21 years ago when I was planning my Queen’s Scout Award. The Award was similar to the Duke Of Edinburgh Award and required a big expedition. I chose to do a cycling trip and needed to find a route greater than the 200 mile minimum requirement. Andrew, my expedition partner, and I briefly considered LEJOG but the distance was way more than required and, at the time, seemed like a bit too much effort. Maidenhead, our hometown, to Lands End at 350 miles was more like it.

That summer was amazing. The years have probably erased all memories of the tough spots and any bad weather, so all I remember now is endless sunny days and pleasant glides through the South-West countryside. We cycled 60 miles a day, stayed in Youth Hostels and survived on Diet Coke and White Chocolate Magnum ice-creams. The 6 day trip to Land’s End was my first big adventure and it definitely wasn't going to be the last. Ever since then the full Land’s End To John O’Groats trip was something I had to do ... just not right now.

Right after that trip I started working for Mars and the next few years was all about work and socialising. 4 years living abroad was a whole different adventure in itself and the LEJOG idea sunk into the very back of my mind. It was only in my mid-30s that I started to get back into the outdoors in a big way. After the Kilimanjaro trek in 2013 I started planning my next big trip and the LEJOG idea started to bubble up again. Two more things then happened to bring it right to the front. The first was turning 40 and thoughts around finishing off things that I wanted to do. The second was planning the Growlerthon, my fundraising year in memory of my dad who was diagnosed with lung cancer shortly after Kili. Back burner no more .... I had to do LEJOG.

Putting the team together was relatively easy. Slobby did the trip 2 years before and was up for doing it again. Brian, my Kili buddy, was also an easy “yes”. Brian recruited the rest of the team: Martyn and Ray, both from our office and both with different personal charity and fitness goals, and Reggie, Brian's brother. By early January we had the team together and the next few months was all about training and route planning.

We had all heard of different routes, from the 41 hours record to a very sedate month-long LEJOG pub crawl. 2 weeks seemed the most obvious duration as it was about as much time as we could get off work and the 75 mile average day was very manageable. This plan meant we could stay off the busy A roads as much as possible and get as much scenery in as possible. By the time we all met up in Penzance the evening before the start, we had reached a peak of excitement. We had done all we could to prepare, train and fundraise. Now all we had to do was cycle.

We took Day 1 easy, just 35 miles to Falmouth. A little hilly, but nothing to complain about and a good dose of coastal route scenery. It was the next 2 days, Falmouth to Exford, that were the real test. Most people assume that Scotland is the toughest section for hills, but its actually Devon and Cornwall. This is part of the reason to start at Lands-End so that you can knock off the coastal hills while your legs are fresh. This would have been fine, except that I was still getting used to my new road-bike and I still wasn’t used to the gears. There were several points on the first few days when I thought I’d broken my bike by changing to the wrong gear at the wrong time up a hill.

By Day 4 we’d got into a flow, having got used to being together as a team and perfecting the routine of every day on the road. Each day we would get up at around 7:30, have breakfast, kit-up and tackle the first 15 to 20 miles. Then would come morning break, usually coffee and carrot cake, followed by another 20 miles before lunch. The afternoons were similar: 20 miles, then coffee and cake and the final push through to wherever we were staying that evening. We even got the evenings down to a fine art with some of us sorting out payment for the hostel, some sorting out clothes washing whilst the others showered.

Whilst a lot of the process of doing the trip became routine, the adventure was in the route itself. England, Wales and Scotland unfolded before us, showing us some of the best parts of the countryside. Towards the end of the trip we about our favourite parts but there were too many to bring it down to a short-list. Often we would post on Facebook about that day having been the best of the trip, only for the next day to be just a enjoyable or even better. My video of the highlights is probably the best way to explain how amazing the trip was.

One special moment for me was the evening in Wick, our final overnight stop after our longest day at 105 miles. We were less than 2 cycling hours from John O’Groats so there was already a feeling of celebration. We’d already been spared punctures or major injuries so getting to the end was inevitable, even if we had to walk. Wick really has a sense of being at the end of the country. It was fairly bleak, even in summer, and we wondered what people did there. Over a few pints a a curry we talked about the hilly South-West from 2 weeks ago, the exhilarating downhill rides into Exford, the Strawberry Line to Bristol, crossing the Severn Bridge, The Wye Valley, the ferry across the Mersey, the Lake District, Gretna, Arran, the Great Glenn and the Scottish coast. All very different experiences and even more special to have been able to join them up in one self-powered adventure.

After all of that, the final was a bit of an anti-climax. From Wick, we only had 17 miles to go, normally the distance till our first carrot cake stop. This 17 miles contained the most rain we'd had apart from the Lake District. John O’Groats quickly came and we were greeted by Martyn's family and friends who had followed us since Arran. The next part was ultra efficient, disassembling and boxing up the bikes, driving to Inverness airport and boarding the plane to Gatwick. After 2 weeks of being very present and fully focused on the trip, suddenly it was all over. I’d had a nice sense of completion for the adventure that I'd had in my mind for 21 years, but it didn't feel like an end, more the inspiration for something new. From John O’Groats, there's 2 ways to go, North by boat to Orkney or carry on West to Dunnet Head, the mainland’s most northerly point, then the wild Scottish coast. I'm sure I'll be back for both, but a lot sooner than 21 years.

Day 1: Land’s End to Falmouth

Date: July 6th 2015
Start: Land’s End Visitors Centre, Sennen, Penzance TR19 7AA
Finish: Falmouth Lodge Backpackers Hostel, 9 Gyllyngvase Terrace, Falmouth, TR11 4DL
Distance: 60.4 km (37.5 miles)
Elevation change: +757m / - 798 m / Net -41m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (Cycle): NCN 3
Other Routes Touched (Walk): South West Coast Path

Day 2: Falmouth to Tintagel

Date: July 7th 2015
Start: Falmouth Lodge Backpackers Hostel, 9 Gyllyngvase Terrace, Falmouth, TR11 4DL
Finish: YHA Tintagel, Dunderhole Point, Tintagel PL34 0DW
Distance: 88.8 km (55.2 miles)
Elevation Change: +1,333m / - 1,289 m / Net +44m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (Cycle): NCN 3, 32
Other Routes Touched (Walk): South West Coast Path

Day 3: Tintagel to Exford

Date: July 8th 2015
Start: YHA Tintagel, Dunderhole Point, Tintagel PL34 0DW
Finish: Exford Hostel, Exemead Stables, Exford, Minehead TA24 7PU
Distance: 118.6 km (73.7 miles)
Elevation change: : +1,641m / - 1,457 m / Net -184m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (Cycle): NCN 27, 277, 3, 33
Other Routes Touched (Walk): South West Coast Path, Tarka Trail, Macmillan Way West, Two Moors Way, Exe Valley Way

Day 4: Exford to Bristol

Date: July 9th 2015
Start: Exford Hostel, Exemead Stables, Exford, Minehead, TA24 7PU
Finish: YHA Bristol, 14 Narrow Quay, Avon, Bristol BS1 4QA
Distance: 122 km (76 miles)
Elevation change: : +875m / - 1,120 m / Net -245m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (Cycle): NCN 26 (The Strawberry Line), 3, 33, 334, 41, 410
Other Routes Touched (Walk): Exe Valley Way, Coleridge Way, Macmillan Way West, River Parrett Trail, The Mendip Trail, West Mendip Way, Round Yatton Walk, River Avon Trail,

Day 5: Bristol to Hereford

Date: July 10th 2015
Start: YHA Bristol, 14 Narrow Quay, Avon, Bristol BS1 4QA
Finish: East Friars B&B, 33 Greyfriars Avenue, Hereford, HR4 0BE
Distance: 84 km (52.2 miles)
Elevation change: +1,047m / - 1,007 m / Net +40m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (Cycle): NCN 4, 41, 410, 42, 423, 46,
Other Routes Touched (Walk): Bristol Triangular City Walk, Severn Way, Wales Coast Path, Wye Valley Walk, Offa’s Dyke Path, Gloucestershire Way, Herefordshire Trail,

Day 6: Hereford to Chester

Date: July 11th 2015
Start: East Friars B&B, 33 Greyfriars Avenue, Hereford, HR4 0BE
Finish: Grotty hotel in Chester City Centre, CH1 3DU
Distance: 149.4 km (92.8 miles)
Elevation change: +1,035m / - 1,066 m / Net -31m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (Cycle): NCN 44, 45, 455, 81,
Other Routes Touched (Walk): Herefordshire Trail, Shropshire Way, Jack Mytton Way, Severn Way, Llangolen Canal Towpath, Maelor Way, Marches Way, Baker Way, Two Saints Way, Shropshire Union Canal Towpath,

Day 7: Chester to Morecambe

Date: July 12th 2015
Start: Grotty hotel in Chester City Centre, CH1 3DU
Finish: The Morecambe Bay Hotel, 317-318 Marine Rd Central, Morecambe LA4 5AA
Distance: 122.9 km (76.4 miles)
Elevation change: +627m / - 642 m / Net -15m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (Cycle): NCN 56, 568, 6, 62, 622, 69, 810,
Other Routes Touched (Walk): Shropshire Union Canal Towpath, Longster Trail, North Cheshire Way, Ribble Way, Lancaster Canal Towpath,

Day 8: Morecambe to Carlisle

Date: July 13th 2015
Start: The Morecambe Bay Hotel, 317-318 Marine Rd Central, Morecambe LA4 5AA
Finish: YHA Carlisle (now permanently closed), Bridge Ln, Carlisle CA2 5SR
Distance: 123.2 km (76.5 miles)
Elevation change: +1,172m / - 1,161 m / Net +11m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (Cycle): NCN 10, 6, 69, 7, 70, 71, 700
Other Routes Touched (Walk): Lancashire Coastal Way, Cumbria Coastal Way, Coast To Coast Walk, Cumbria Way,

Day 9: Carlisle to New Cumnock

Date: July 14th 2015
Start: YHA Carlisle (now permanently closed), Bridge Ln, Carlisle CA2 5SR
Finish: Old School B&B, Dalleagles, New Cumnock, East Ayrshire, KA18 4QW
Distance: 126.5 km (78.6 miles)
Elevation change: +921m / - 707 m / Net -214m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (Cycle): NCN 10, 7, 72
Other Routes Touched (Walk): Hadrian’s Wall Path, Annandale Way, Southern Upland Way,

Day 10: New Cumnock to Lochgilphead

Date: July 15th 2015
Start: Old School B&B, Dalleagles, New Cumnock, East Ayrshire, KA18 4QW
Finish: Empire Lodge B&B, Union St Lochgilphead, Lochgilphead, PA31 8JS,
Distance: 131.8 km (81.9 miles)
Elevation change: +1,213m / -1,437 m / Net -224m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (Cycle): NCN 7, 73, 78
Other Routes Touched (Walk): River Ayr Way, New Town Trail, Arran Coastal Way, Kyntire Way

Day 11: Lochgilphead to Fort William

Date: July 16th 2015
Start: Empire Lodge B&B, Union St Lochgilphead, Lochgilphead, PA31 8JS,
Finish: Glen Nevis Youth Hostel, Glen Nevis, Fort William PH33 6SY
Elevation change: 135.6 km (84.3 miles)
Ascent: +1,554m / -1,535 m / Net -19m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (Cycle): NCN 78
Other Routes Touched (Walk): Great Glen Way, West Highland Way

Day 12: Fort William to Inverness

Date: July 17th 2015
Start: Glen Nevis Youth Hostel, Glen Nevis, Fort William PH33 6SY
Finish: Inverness Youth Hostel, Victoria Dr, Inverness IV2 3QB
Elevation change: 107.9 km (67 miles)
Ascent: +1,197m / -1,206 m / Net -9m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (Cycle): NCN 1, 7, 78
Other Routes Touched (Walk): West Highland Way, East Highland Way, Great Glen Way

Day 13: Inverness to Wick

Date: July 18th 2015
Start: Inverness Youth Hostel, Victoria Dr, Inverness IV2 3QB
Finish: Harbour House B&B, 12 Harbour Terrace, Wick KW1 5HB
Distance: 167.1 km (103.8 miles)
Elevation change: +1,471m / - 1,486 m / Net -15m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (Cycle): NCN 1
Other Routes Touched (Walk): none

Day 14: Wick to John O’ Groats

Date: July 19th 2015
Start: Harbour House B&B, 12 Harbour Terrace, Wick KW1 5HB
Finish: John O’ Groats Visitors Centre, John O' Groats, Wick KW1 4YR
Distance: 27.6 km (17.1 miles)
Elevation change: +203m / - 213 m / Net -10m
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other Routes Touched (Cycle): NCN 1
Other Routes Touched (Walk): none

Books and maps:

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Black Mountain: Herefordshire County Top

Also Known As: Twyn Llech (Welsh)
Significance: Highest peak in Herefordshire (Historic CT).
Member of: Marilyn, Hewitt, Nuttall
Parent Peak: Waun Fach. NHN = Rhos Dirion
Elevation: 703m
Date climbed: April 20th 2014
Coordinates: 52°00′30″N 3°05′05″W
Route Start / End: Gospel Pass Car Park, Capel-y-ffin, Abergavenny, NP7 7NP
Route Distance: 8 km (5 miles)
Route Elevation Change: +/- 196m
Subsidiary tops on route: Hay Bluff (677m)
GPX File: get via Buy Me a Coffee
Other routes touched: Offa’s Dyke Path
OS Trig Pillar: TP5402 - Pen-Y-Beacon
Map: OS Explorer OL13 Brecon Beacons National Park
Guidebook: The UK's County Tops (Jonny Muir), Walking the County High Points of England (David Bathurst)
Links: Wikipedia (Herefordshire), Wikipedia (Black Mountain), Peakbagger, Hillbagging

If I had known that I’d be returning to the Ewyas valley many times in the future I probably wouldn’t have attempted this on on such a rainy day. As it happened we were on the last day of a long weekend in the Brecon Beacons and I was eager to bag this one.

Although Black Mountain is the high point of Herefordshire, an English County, much of the walk is in Wales. The obvious starting point is the car park at the top of Gospel Pass. From here there’s a well trodden path up the side of the valley to the Hay Bluff Trig Pillar. From the pillar, take the south-easterly path to join Offa’s Dyke. Continue for ~1.2k until you get to the high point. There’s nothing here except for a small group of stones. As visibility was very poor and it was raining a lot, we quickly retraced our steps back to the parking spot.

In the following years a good friend of ours would move to the valley and we have done a lot more walks near there. With better weather and more time I would plan a different walk that includes both Twmpa and Black Mountain.

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Richard gower20 April 2014Trek, UK County Tops, Mountain, Trig Pillar, Herefordshire, Brecknockshire, Brecon Beacons, England, Wales, National Park Comment