Ever since I’d started researching my family history I’ve had a trip to Broadstairs in the back of my mind. My Dad remembered being sent to a convalescence home there when he was a boy. He didn’t remember much of the details or even how long he was there for. His most vivid memory was being taken to a London train station by his parents and being met by some nuns. His only other memory was walking through a tunnel from the home to the beach where they would play in the afternoons.
Having read some of the blog posts from people who also went there it seems that vague memories are a shared experience. Some told of abuse by the nuns but there’s no evidence that it happened to my Dad. One day I’ll do some deeper research, but for now I wanted to visit the area and see where he spent some of his childhood.
This was also our New Years’ planning trip. We do something like this every January to reflect on the year before and decide what’s important for the year ahead. A long walk outside in an inspiring place puts us in the right mental state to work out what’s really important. The coastal walk from Ramsgate to Margate turned out to be a perfect location for such a walk.
Our walk started from a B&B that we rented on Granville Marina in Ramsgate. A visit to the Ramsgate Tunnels seemed very appealing but we had a long day ahead to do so we’ll do those on a return visit. The first section stays close to the beach following the Sea it All route. The painted shelters along the East Cliffs are worth a look but don't go too far as you'll get to a dead end. The best route is to use the stairs to the Winterstoke Gardens (~750m from the Ramgate Tunnels) and follow the cliff-top path through King George VI Memorial Park.
The route has options in several places to stay on the cliff-top path or take the beach-route. A lot of this will depend on tides so keep an eye out and stay to the cliff-top if in doubt. The first of these choices is at Dumpton Gap where there's a path down to the beach next to the old submarine telephone cable hut. From here both the cliff-top and beach walks take you to Viking Bay in Broadstairs.
At Broadstairs we met up with Mark, a new friend that we met on the Camino Portuguese last May. As well as being an all round great guy, his local knowledge made the trip even more special. We walked with Mark along Stone Beach, where the (now filled in) tunnel that my Dad remembers connected to St Mary’s Convalescence Home on the top of the Cliff. The bright sunny day was quite a contrast to the grim black and white image I’d had of my Dad's stay there. I’d always pictured his time there to be a lonely and scary experience but maybe it wasn’t. It made me think about how we often make up stories about other people’s experiences through a lack of information.
After Stone Beach the coastal path diverts off the cliff from behind the expensive houses on North Foreland Road. A highlight is North Foreland Lighthouse which towers over the original site of St Mary’s, now a private estate. After ~1km, you can return to the Beach at Kingsgate Bay. Our timing was great as the tide was out and we were able to walk all the way to Margate on the beach.
There's a lot of choice of things to do and places to eat after the walk. We opted for the quirky Double-Decker Bus cafe in the Old Kent Market for food and a rest before heading back. Regular trains run back to Ramsgate from Margate, making this an easy point-to-point walk.
